3-1-1 Thursday 23rd Feb
We woke at 6am - we had slept unexpectedly long and well - and were woken by crows pecking at coconuts hanging from the tree outside our windows. When it was light enough we stood in awe gazing at the ocean from our wide deep balcony looking through the upper branches of a grove of coconut trees, which stood sentinel like at the edge of The JetWing Blue terrace marking the start of the sand. The beach was quiet and remained so during the day, we remarked that it was no busier than our Northumbrian "local", on a normal weekday!
The view of the beach from our balcony at The JetWing Blue, Negombo, was spectacular - wide long deep soft seemingly endless golden sand - the only activity a group of fisherman busy with their nets on the water's edge. Looking again we saw the catamarans used by the fishermen to cast their nets and hastened down to the beach, cameras at the ready.
We hurried back for breakfast, anxious not to miss the next installment of fishing process, and found a wonderful fruit selection followed by curried hoppers (bowl shaped nests of rice or eggs) cooked in front for you.We were soon reaching for sachets of granulated sugar and bottled water!
Back on the beach after breakfast we were assailed by waves of vendors - selling boat trips, batik sarongs, miniature boats, conch shells with names engraved (ours tomorrow if we succumbed) but found a shy welcome from the smiling fisherman.
As the morning got warmer we decided to retreat to the shade of our balcony and take a break from the vendors whilst we watch the fishing from a distance - the elongated nets are cast from a catamaran during the night and net hauling commences about about 12 midday, a chain of men in two cooperative human ladders pull them into shore. After couple of hours of singing and net pulling a crowd gathered to witness the catch being unveiled.
The feeling of disappointment especially after the sense of community group cooperation was palpable. You could feel it in the air, emanating both from the fisherman and the watching bystanders supporting the fisherman, willing the catch to bigger and more signicant that it was.
It's clearly unrealistic to expect this catch of tiny fish to feed the families of the 30 or so fisherman involved in the daily complex process of casting the nets and pulling them out of the sea again. What is their means of support, was the unspoken conclusion on everyone's lips. Chastening. Also concerning is the non organic content of the nets. We saw before us why we need to take ownership of the issue and practice a world wide plastic bag ban.
After the singing and communal effort ceased we sensed a huge feeling of disappointment and sank away, finding it an opportune moment to examine the decorative piles of ropes and floats and the occasional beach shack.
Carrying with us a sense of disappointment we retreated to the "safety" of the terrace and almost into the arms of the street vendors who unceasingly work the lounging tourists. We even tried a little more curry - never thought of eating it before for breakfast, lunch & dinner.
We finished our day with our first dip in the Indian Ocean - a warm warm soup like experience!
Clearly it's the ocean I've waiting for all my life! As the beach shelved steeply and the waves rushed in, and my holiday hat made the trip to the ocean's edge.



