We enjoyed a whistle stop tour of the huge site at the ancient capital when we visited the UNESCO world heritage site of Polonnaruwa and its historic ruins, in the North Central Province. Setting off from Jim's Farm quite early driving north east, we were quickly distracted by our first sighting of a water monitor lizard - an indigenous large lizard with a poisonous tongue, sword like tail, and five claw feet. Sumith remarked that they can eat almost everything except humans!
After this diversion we arrived at Polonnaruwa where the sites are spread across a wide area so Sumith organised our visit to each area moving the car to the next, as we made our tour.
The scale, complexity, beauty and variety of the sites is quite overwhelming. Polonnaruwa was the second ancient capital of Sri Lanka and includes the Palace & Rock Temple. Though the city was built in the late 11th century, the Palace was effectively destroyed by an Indian invader in 12th century. The ancient city includes tooth temples built through the ages to venerate The Sacred Tooth of Buddha.
We started our visit at the citadel area next to the lake, here are some images from the Council Chamber of Nissanka Malla, including beautiful friezes and elegant pillars, which we visited first.
We visited the extreme southern end of the site next and were amazed by the beautiful statue of a one magnificent kings of Polonnaruwa (Agastata) which shows him holding farm implements, to reflect on his humble upbringing.
There are lots of beautiful buildings in the Ancient City including the Vatadage, which is one of the important sites in the ancient city a circular temple, you cross the Moonstone - a beautifully sculptured stone half moon doorstep composed of central ring, lotus flowers, geese, horses, and elephants.
The carving on the moonstone also reflects the five principles or steps of Buddhism, which form Buddha's essential guidance for living a "good" life. You must abstain from alcohol, lies, killing animals, theft and only maintain one wife.
The Vatadage is a round shrine like pavilion temple for a stupa (sanctuary for relics) with four buddhas placed at the top of North, South, East & West staircases used to enter the shrine. The structure is believed to have been built to hold the relic of the sacred tooth of Buddha and his alms' bowl.
Hatadage - another shrine to the buddha's tooth relic. The possession of the buddhas' tooth relic meant you were the true monarch as possession was recognised as a symbol of kingship during the Polonnaruva period.
Final site at the northern extremity of the complex is Gal Vihara, a temple of four enormous stone statues carved into the rock - saved from pillage by the Buddhist monks who buried them - consisting of four oversized statues of Buddha including an enormous 14m reclining Buddha on the point of death - indicated by his toe position.
Useful link for the site and its buildings is - http://www.tikalanka.com/
We rounded our day of culture off with a drive back through the country back to Jim's Farm - avoiding the ribbon development of the main road via Dambulla - by striking out on a route new to Sumith via Giritale, along a canal, bird spotting all the way! Back to Mango for a veranda drink, pleasant company and a delicious dinner.
As an aside - next time we go on a big trip like this, if I decide to write up a daily blog/diary I will be looking for a different format to Google Blogger, the combination of erratic internet speed & access and the unwieldy software I have found it far too difficult & time consuming to post due to the very awkward format. And I still have days left to post!!
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